We are staying is Cusco today, the morning will be a self-guided walk, part of which will be finding a city tour for the afternoon. We asked at our hotel but they wanted a mixture of card and currency payment, as we planned on not needing Soles for just one day, we’ll try elsewhere.
We are staying in the old region most cities have, a bit like the City of London this one is referred to as Cusco City - a city within a city. In fact it’s significance is vast, this is the capital of the Inca civilisation throughout its existence from C13 right to 1532 when the pesky Spaniards stole it. It is widely considered to be the historical capital of Peru. Walking back to the main square we are accosted at every opportunity, it is capitalism at it’s most wearing - how many times can one say “no, gracias” without getting grumpy?
We find a travel company that doesn’t look like a mafioso back-room, and speak to a helpful lady - so now we know about the cash thingy - turns out the government doesn’t take cards, so all the admission fees must be paid cash - shame our hotel couldn’t explain that one. Anyway a quick ATM visit fixes it.
We commence our tour by heading back past the riot-police outside the cathedral, past our hotel and on another 500m, mostly uphill, to the San Blas area which seems to be the bohemian centre, many many cafes, craft shops and a pretty good view back down into town over the red rooftops as far as one can see.
With a backlog of paperwork we return for a picnic lunch and catch up on a few pressing matters, then head back to the tour company. Our starting attraction is Quirikancha, the Golden Temple now a museum to the Inca. We learn much about these people, how they used astronomy very successfully and went on, under the reign of Pachacuti to build an empire so powerful it ruled much of Western South America.
We move on now, from downtown to the hills to visit Saqsaywaman, a vast site holding the Temple of Sun, extensively improved by the Inca but having been there since about C9. The huge cut stones Emperor Pachacuti used are so carefully cut they fit together without the need for mortar and are still perfect in many places, even including built-in drainage.
Next to Q’enqo, another temple, this one a labyrinth carved into a stone, long before the Inca, but used by them as well to make sacrifices and mummification.
We take a break from antiquity to visit an alpaca shop, no, just the byproduct - woolly jumpers, hats and other crimes against fashion. None are purchased, or the silver jewellery they make here. On our way the views are amazing and a small Corcovado is close by.
We drive to the highest point on this tour 3.8km above sea-level to visit Tambomachay the temple of water - a cold spring again pre-dating a Inca but enhanced by them. Here offerings were left to ensure good water and crops, although with an average rainfall of 2000mm per year, they were preaching to the choir.
Our final stop is Puka Pukara which differs from the rest as it’s not religious, merely a fortress and an important part of the defences of the city. It guards one of the Inca trails, the four routes that lead to / from Cusco to the rest of the empire.
It’s our last night in Cusco I still haven’t tried the local delicacy so we venture out for a lovely dinner in a local restaurant.
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