We’re thinking of running a competition for longest walk across a port. Yesterday in Barcelona, over 2.5 miles, today in Valencia it’s almost exactly two miles. It will require some checking back but I think only St Petersburg can beat these two, with Buenos Aires and Fort Lauderdale just behind - so far!!
Most people will know Spain’s third largest city as the place paella comes from, but this national dish, as adorable as it, is not our focus for today. Instead we’re firstly heading for the futuristic area known as the Arts and Science Quarter.
First an history lesson - in 1957 a flood of the river Turia killed many scores of people. This was the final straw in a long-fought battle with flooding and during the sixties the plans to fix the problem were initiated. By 1971 the Turia has been diverted to the south of the city, and the former riverbed slowly became transformed into parkland. Now, with decades of nature behind it, the whole area is a wonderful, lush oasis crossing the city. In particular the abovementioned Arts and Science Quarter has been extensively developed into several exciting buildings.
With good fortune we discover there’s a tour of the venue complex Palau de les Arts, a building that looks like a Roman Centurion’s helmet, starting right now, so we quickly join the small group already booked on. (You’ll remember that the concert hall in Tenerife’s capital also looks like a Roman Centurion’s helmet too?)
We get to see two areas including a 320 seat studio theatre of spectacular rake, when a couple of ladies rush in, obviously late. Not five minutes have passed before one is taken ill, not having any water with her on this extremely hot day, and we are delayed whilst our guide goes into Emergency Medic mode. The lady is whisked away in a wheelchair whilst her “friend” continues with our tour.
Meanwhile we’ve lost another member to a loo he shouldn’t have used, and the French girls are right at the top of the house messing with the lighting rig! Ten minutes later we are all back together and descending from floor +3 to -3 in this amazing fifteen storey building.
Here we visit the artistic rooms, of which there are twenty rehearsal rooms (the other side contains a similar number of tech spaces such as wardrobe and workshops) and witness the resident company chorus in rehearsal. Goodness are they good!
Back up to floor zero we enter the main house’s atrium with glass floor and then into the house itself, this one for opera and ballet, seating 1476. It’s modern lines are very interesting, built in 2007 this is probably the newest venue we’ve seen outside China. The staging is vast (400 sq meters) and like the Royal Opera House and Sydney Opera House has full-stage lifts, huge wings and other methods for swapping out entire sets in one go without dismantling. What looks like natural lighting is all man-made.
We’re probably cut short, and we don’t get to see the concert hall which is above the main house, but it’s been an excellent insight for us and we feel privileged to have been shown around.
Next we’re back in the old riverbed walking towards the old town. Previous experience means I know exactly when to emerge at Punte del Mar, and change tack for best effect, so we pass the Porte del Mar and begin to wiggle our way into the old streets of town.
We love the many old buildings as we reach the centre, as defined by the cathedral, then fan out to see once again all the important sites.
Whilst in the amazing, some might say world-best, market with its hundreds of stalls, we pick up lunch for eating as we return. (Later on in the pool, some Aussies try to convince me this building was a former railway station but I cannot find any evidence this is true.)
After a very good wander we head finally to the northernmost gate, and quickly ascend for a last look over the city (until our next visit) and then drop down into the old riverbed to find a spot to eat our lunch.
After lunch our walk back is delightful, we stay roadside to enjoy the riverbed on one side and the spectacular architecture on the other, until eventually we’re back to the Arts and Science Quarter.
Traversing this, we follow the tram tracks until we veer off to pick up the port road for our remaining two miles home.
After a very good walk we dedicate the rest of the afternoon to the pool, before commencing our evening ritual.
Later we’re dressed and ready for dinner, and enjoy scallop, seafood mousseline, corn chowder, lamb shank, deconstructed paella, cheese, chocolate fondant and chocolate sundae.
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