UK 2021 - Day 18 - Wednesday 21/07/21

Let’s do a shorter walk today? That was the plan anyway, but as usual I get carried away and, well the rest is history as someone says quite often. 

First though, there’s a tour of the castle to be done. Our guide is the head barman, who is a font of knowledge about the castle, having worked here since he was fourteen. 

Starting the build in 1350, it was completed by 1364. Ownership was complicated by death, eligible widows, sons by previous marriages and legal battles, during which the castle has a serious fire and was totally gutted in 1405. 

It remained a ruin for nearly half a millennium until in 1882 an influential historian bought it and commenced restorations, until he unexpectedly died, but his widow continued the work and completed in 1914. She was responsible for the chapel in dedication of her husband. 

The remaining C20 history was chequered, a school, a banqueting hall and private residence until a MIT lecturer fell for it in 1985, since which he has cultivated the present hotel. 

We’re taken to the original spiral staircase, then the function room, and finally the ramparts, where there is the tiny chapel which was blessed by Pope Leo XIII. 

There’s a great story about the garderobe tower, which our guide embellishes somewhat for effect, but in reality, it’s not necessary to use the upper loo in order to any “fallout” from above, as each floor is in fact offset from the one above. It is however the best example of an ancient toilet of this type in Europe. 

We fancy the nearby town of Hexham, as it is supposed to be lovely, so set off there after the tour. It’s a seven mile walk so we head off purposely, enjoying the countryside as we go. The views are incredible across the Tyne valley. 

We arrive in Hexham at the Sele, a park area near where the now ruined priory once stood. The adjacent Abbey still stands and in a stunning cathedral with many beautiful perspectives. Currently they are hosting a Covid memorial with thousands of origami birds - quite beautiful.

We look at the market square and the town jail, both dating from C17, and just wander a bit before setting off back, this time along the Tyne Trail. At this point it really is The Tyne, and before long we come across the confluence, seeing the North Tyne but taking the South branch we need to get home. 

With the lazy river quietly passing at our side, the nearest road far away, the silence is palpable, only an occasional moo or bleat and infrequent whoosh of a distant train makes the miles pass by with pleasure.  

We stop at a pub thinking afternoon tea would make a change from lunch, but they don’t have scones, despite Google! Later on another pub is closed down completely, so we just carry on. At Hayden bridge we cross the river and begin the 400ft ascent back to our castle, this time no welcoming sight as it’s impossible to see until the very last minute as we emerge from the woods.

By this time we’re looking forward to a well deserved drink, but it takes them 35 minutes to deliver two pints of shandy!!

Throughout the holiday we have noticed a general lack of competent waiting staff. Some nationalities are just brilliant, professional peoples who for whatever reason seem to excel in this role, yet they are mostly not here, instead we’re getting hapless young Britons who don’t have a clue what service means. Is it Covid or Brexit, or the perfect storm of both? Only time will tell. 

After we’re almost skeletal, the waiter comes back to tell us the barrel needs changing, then a little later the post-mix is empty, until eventually the head Boardman brings us our shandies, full of embarrassment, but at least he didn’t charge.

There’s hardly any time to shower and dress for dinner before we’re sat in the garden again with Chardonnay. The menus fil to turn up but by now we know the options and decide to repeat the beetroot and goat’s cheese and then Halibut and Cod, both excellent, and I try the coconut panna cotta, with a lovely Sauternes.