As is our wont, we’re walking alongside another body of water. Unlike Rutland, which is a multi million pound project by the water board, with tarmac tracks, Ullswater is a multi million year project by Mother Nature, and the tracks are rather more challenging!!
The only sailing we can book is South to North at 15:25 so we design our walk around this fact, deciding first to walk to Pooley Bridge, the northernmost bit of Ullswater. Mixed road and country, the A road isn’t exactly much fun, but it’s only a few short sections.
This sets the plan, as we cross the River Eamont, one of the feeder rivers of Ullswater, a new bridge after recent floods removed the old bridge entirely, and round the shore past a very popular water sports area, then extensive camping grounds, before the trail calms somewhat and the only path is the road, mostly just feet from the lapping water’s edge.
Sadly we pass the now closed Sharrow Bay, where we’ve enjoyed many meals, even (and more than a few times) driving up here just for Sunday lunch! Francis and Brian would be so sad to know what has happened if they were still alive.
The road is single lane and although quiet we observe a few interesting (read terrified) reversing manoeuvres. The road only goes on to Howtown and Sandwick, which are teeny weeny little hamlets, the first with a guest house and a pier where later we stop briefly on our return.
Then the only route is a bridleway all the way to the southernmost part of Ullswater. If I was a horse I would object to 7.5 miles on this rough, harsh and uneven path or maybe refuse to do it at all, but as humans we just plod on regardless, with maybe a grumble or two occasionally. The views are incredible, the people are almost all friendly and considerate, so we enjoy it, even though we’re making a very reduced pace compared to normal.
We’re impressed to see hundreds of people engaging in the annual Ullswater Swim, seven miles seems like torture to us!
Walking through Pattersale to Glenridding where the steamer departs, we pass the mountain rescue centre, a few minutes later we see an HM Coastguard helicopter descend in the vicinity, and leave and then an Air Ambulance arrive. Here’s hoping that story has a good ending, or it was an exercise.
The passage back to Pooley on MY Raven is a dream. Of course, in my opinion it would have been even better if the original 1889 steam engines hadn’t been replaced in 1934 by diesel, but it’s still a great experience as we clock twelve knots. A stop at Howtown ruins the average but we still make the ten miles to Pooley Bridge in about 44 minutes.
Then it’s just the walk back to Macdonald’s which is mostly OK apart from a mile or so on the road.
After 18 miles we’re desperate for a drink so stop at the terrace for shandies before showering and dressing for dinner.
The evening is amusing as we find fault with so many aspects of service, but not in a grumpy way, just understanding that the service industry is struggling with a massive lack of staff at present. Again our pudding wines are gratis to make up for failings elsewhere.
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