Apparently Córdoba is typically the hottest city in Europe. As we left our hotel at 21:00 en route to dinner, stepping out was just like walking into Forgemasters (a steelworks in Sheffield, if you’re not old enough to know.) Still 37 or 38 degrees, it had at least cooled off a bit.
Technology is struggling in this heat too, they have a tolerance up to about 45 degrees, but at this temperature that’s only a six of seven degrees of latitude, and of course using them stirs electrons, thus generating more heat, so before long the screen goes to half brightness (the last thing needed in brilliant sunshine) and minutes later “I’m too hot, I’m not playing now.” Swapping between mine and hubbys phone means I’m coping but it’s quite a challenge when all our planning is electronic - but don't worry I have printed copies too!
We did the outlying areas yesterday so on Monday we can concentrate on the two nearby sections today, so first we head off into the Jewish Quarter to explore the ancient labyrinthine streets nearest our hotel, and of course scope out a suitable luncheonary. In name only these days, it’s representative of the multiculturalism that transcends most of Europe, a mad little island over the Channel excepted of course! After hitting all intended objectives, including the Royal Stables (a bit like the Spanish Riding School in Vienna) plus a few gleaned from other maps, we scale the old gate north of the Roman Bridge, the Truimfo de San Rafael, to get a fabulous view over the river, and learn about its history.
Thus we are in the old city and head to the Cathedral - at least that’s what it is now, having previously been a splendid mosque, and prior to that a basilica. And so for fifteen centuries the site has had religious significance, indeed in its Muslim period Córdoba was more important than Damascus. Before we visit we hit the tower, which of course has previously been a minoret, a reference to this visible within the tower’s walls in the form of a cupola. The views from the top are worth the 197 steps in scorching heat.
We move on to the Mesquita, the cathedral, and its incredible interior. Not unlike the cistern in Istanbul, there are arches in every direction. Around the perimeter we lose count after about fifty chapels, all intricate and ornate in some way. We observe a glass floored section displaying tiles from 925, almost 1100 years of history. Right in the centre is the choir and alter, again separated like in Sevilla, but this time it works perfectly. These are a mere 270 years old. The whole experience is wonderful, even sharing with literally hundreds of tourists doesn’t matter, so vast is the space.
A wonderful bonus emerges as we read our tickets properly, the many churches, all closed, we saw yesterday are part of the Ferdinand Route, in recognition of his visit in 1236, so we get a pass for eight other nearby churches. We select five from the list and aim to visit these before a late lunch. Some are externally stunning but internally rather dull, others are plain ugly on the outside but hiding spectacular interiors. San Lorenzo is good example of the former, whereas San Augustin is the latter.
Back to the Jewish Quarter we take Tapas in a tree shaded square before heading into the modern town, only by way of a route, through the Plaza Tendillas, the central square, to check out the theatre, Roman Mausoleum and finally Victoria Market, an unexpectedly uber-trendy food market just a few hundred yards from the rear of our rusty hotel, we’ll review that for later.
All this means we have an extended pool time, and manage multiple dips, multiple yard-arm moments and could still be dressed in time to head out for dinner ...
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