Noel Coward wrote a jolly ditty about the peculiar habits of us Brits, but it should be noted he was just as bad - doing exactly the same when he had the idea! So once again, a common theme in my blogs, is that we are planning a little walk right across the centre of the day. As we woke to cloudy skys, we’ve swapped today’s and tomorrow’s planned excursions around, in order to harness the potentially reduced weather. It’s only half a good idea!
At the planning stage I’ve failed miserably to connect our intended circuit of the ‘bowl’ which is just down from Ronda. I now know that it’s known as the Ronda Basin, since a mere 11.5 million years ago it was a three hundred meter deep section of the sea which at the time was lapping the rocks where Ronda is now built. 5.6 million ago, the seas receded and it became mostly what we see today, probably a few less tourists though.
We’re keen on circuits as back tracking feels like defeat, it’s a man thing like not asking for directions in the olden days (pre GPS) so I’m optimistic that despite Google Maps not showing any paths, the scorched track clearly visible on said essential website will do just nicely thank you. We planned to go straight to the Virgen’s shrine, but over breakfast observe some tourists hanging off a rock just below our hotel, so aim for that first, except a slight diversion took us on a path almost to the foot of the main arch, where the river Guadalevin is currently in modest flow. We say hello to a wet-suited worker clearing fallen logs and stones that block the tributaries that lead the stream to the built-under hydroelectric generator.
Back on the tourist trail we visit the said rock and then a nearby horseshoe arch, and then drop down to a car park which is for bridge view photos if you can’t manage the steps. Then we head back, past St Francis. I’m sure you’ll remember he’s just outside the town’s southern gate, Puerta de Almocábar. Continuing on we soon leave the road heading towards the Cave shrine of the Virgen de la Cabeza, which is at the end of our first route. Our optimism receives a double blow when firstly the shrine is locked, and then we stand absolutely no chance of continuing our journey. One way, the scorched path, is treacherous even by our standards, and the only other route off the cliff side is a huge scree slope where no trees have taken route, clearly a message to the wise!
So backtrack it is, we return to the car park and then continue down the very steep cobbled path which serves as road and formal walking trail. As we descend a couple of American ladies are struggling to get their 500 Abarth up the hill basically because the driver can’t control the power, they ask for help so we break off and, after declining to let me drive it out of the mess she’s created, listened whilst I talked her through how to do it, which at least worked as she was basically a good driver out of her depth, just not able to trust a scruffy, sweaty hiker!
Now away from all remaining tourists, we settle on a few rocks and make lunch - no so difficult as today we’ve found our local Carrefour sells Cæsar salad kits, and the results are pretty good - I use lots more garlic but otherwise it’s great. Our Verdejo has warmed enough to poach the chicken, not that it’s needed, with our water we could mash tea and the brass bodied cameras could fry eggs, but it’s not going to spoil our lovely lunch which we enjoy in sublime peace at the foot of the cliffs, entirely on our own if one discounts the hundreds of tourists nearly 300m above staring down at us, or more likely just the incredible view.
Although this is already plan B we’re not sure we will get away with an exit at the other end of the basin or need to switchback again, but we plod on as the heat turns up several degrees, and suddenly Mr Google throws a googlie and we can see a route - possibly the confusion at Mountain View (Google’s HQ) stems from the fact that we have to traverse the electricity sub station to get this far, plus several dodgy pathways. Passing a gorgeous ranch on the way, we finally achieve the goal of a line of trees we can see from our hotel, meaning we can continue back into the town from the North and finally we’ve pretty much done a circuit. If I was enthusiastically American I would offer a loud whoop and high five, but that’s never going to happen.
Our final 200m ascent out of the basin is blooming hard, it’s still getting warmer and of course we’ve walked a bit already, but the relief when we reach our zenith is glorious and we treat ourselves to iced tea, before heading back to the hotel and a much needed dip in the pool, oh and a bottle of crisp cool Chardonnay. Dinner is booked for 21:00 so there’s every possibility the photos might happen!
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