After breakfast we are soon in the Bug and heading towards Antequera. We have a problem ... at the airport the car was talking to me in Polish, and my eleven words (yup, count ‘em) of Polish do not extend to oil, so this morning, having reset the lingo whilst driving two nights ago, the Power On Self Test announces we have an oil problem. A little further exploration and I find the screen that says we are 300km over on an oil change.
Objectively, this is most unlikely, as hire cars are generally well maintained (it would be stupid otherwise) but I feel obliged to call Europcar and tell them the glad news. I go from pillar to post and end up with a squeaky man asking me what county I’m in (not a good start) and then unable to find our location. Eventually he says please buy some oil and top the car up, they will pay us back.
Google maps suggest we drive almost back to the airport before taking a left, but we’re more interested in taking a scenic route, so head off inland and hit the mountains very quickly - it will take longer but who wants another motorway anyway? The journey is delightful up into the mountains and then across open plains, through a few small towns and generally just zipping around. The bug is really well behaved, and its tiny 1.2 litre engine is nippy and sweet, so I’m happy the oil is fine, especially with the extra half a can we feed her. The paddles are fun to mess with but really not needed, I just like to play!
On the outskirts of Antequera we observe a mound of rock towering from the plateau, we later learn this is Lover’s Rock and seems to be visible from everywhere in the town. Our hotel is no exception and as I write this I feel that I can reach out and touch the lover’s resting place.
Our plan today is a 33 point tour of the antiquities which includes fifteen churches. Needless to say they are mostly closed, but we get into Belén which is beautiful and has the most ornate ceiling ever. We had to put money in the electricity meter to turn the lights on, but it was worth it! Moving on we wander past many more, before stopping for a light lunch. I’m tempted by jamon and foie gras, but that turns out to be a translation error and it’s really pork not goose pâté.
Next we climb (via another church) to the castle, and have a great time wandering round this incredible site dating back to the C8 in parts, from when the Arabs ruled the area, and then it’s more recent history in C15 when we decided to steal it. The Crusaders banished the Muslims to Granada, primarily by (the then Prince) Ferdinand I of Aragon who made his presence felt in 1410 alongside Catherine of Lancaster, not his wife (just saying.)
The castle tour is wonderful and especially enhanced by us being the only customers. We then head to the Santa Maria next door, which is a big surprise because this church has been deconsecrated, before we move on, reserving a previously researched restaurant for dinner as we pass by. There are a few more churches, none that we get into, and a few other buildings of note, and a gelato (always ‘of note’) before we’re at the bullring.
We’re probably a disappointment to several of our readers (you know who you are ladies) because we would watch this like we watch boxing - NEVER - however the structure is interesting, and it would make a great theatre in the round so all hope is not lost! There’s another motive, a restaurant for tomorrow if they have space (the jury’s out at present.)
We return to our Parador and the pool and more importantly I can hear the word “sangria” singing in the ether.
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