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Day 0 - 14/03/19
Day 0 - 14/03/19
Today is Pi day, not that many people care - if you’re a geek you’ll know why it is, and if you’re not, it’s irrelevant to you!
The best laid plans ... etc. We’d intended to set off for Luton after the Thursday matinee, leaving plenty of time to get there, park, grab dinner and a decent night’s sleep before our rather early flight to Vienna.
VIPs notwithstanding, that’s what should have happened, but “Il Patron” changes plans and decides to attend the evening performance, leaving us with a change in schedule. So at around 22:30 I set course for Luton, it takes exactly three hours to drive. Given that our planned (and paid for) parking is unavailable in the wee small hours, we decided to park the car at the hotel instead, doubling our parking bill.
Day 1 - 15/03/19
After a bit of messing, we manage to get our heads down around 02:00, seemingly within minutes the alarm rings stridently at 05:00. We walk over to the terminal, and are pleasantly surprised with how quickly we drop the bag, shoot through security in 4 minutes, waltz through duty free (didn’t partake) and find breakfast in the shape of coffee and sausage sandwich which is surprisingly good.
Before long we’re on the plane and shooting down the runway. Our pilot tells us we have a 150 mph tailwind and expect to be at Vienna well ahead of schedule, which we were indeed. Thanking him as we depart the aircraft, it is troubling to notice he’s barely started shaving ... I suspect we’re getting old!!
A much more mature operative at the Avis desk is equally nice, upgrading us to an automatic, and swiftly getting us speeding away in the direction of Slovakia. It’s only 63km, so not particularly arduous and just after midday we’re parked up at our hotel in the town square and unpacked. I did forget to buy the necessary vignette for taking the car out of Austria so I quickly purchased online for €10. It’s amusing that we’re now paying charges for three parking places, and only have two cars!
We decide to head up into the old town to a deli we know to get a simple baguette for lunch, and sit on a bridge to consume, before heading up along the bank of the Danube a while for our afternoon walk. Before long it’s time to head home, shower and change for the evening and head the opposite way along the Danube towards the new theatre and our chosen restaurant for an early supper. We’re saddened that one of our number is missing, and keep thinking about Heather’s absence due to health issues, as she was with us last time we came out to support Dan.
It’s a lovely Italian with an excellent menu and a damn good wine list too, but I’m modest in choosing a very agreeable sharp and spicy Chardonnay from Puglia (the heel.) We opt for goat’s cheese salad and mushroom gnocchi, and tuna tartare and tenderloin penne - all excellent.
Braving the heavy rain we dash the 100 yards to the theatre, and meet up with our dear friend and colleague Dan who’s Ballet creation we’ve come to watch. Before long we’re enjoying the premiere of “Chaplin the Tramp” told by the 65 strong dancers of the Slovak National Ballet, and accompanied by the 70 piece orchestra.
The evening is a huge success and we’re very proud of Dan and his collaborators’ work, all of whom we know very well. It’s off to a function room for speeches and socialising, we spend a good while with one of Charles’s granddaughters who is a delightful lady.
Eventually it’s time for bed, not forgetting to write these words before retiring.
Day 2 - 16/03/19
We manage to sleep in quite well, and don’t get to breakfast until after 10:00, but that’s OK because it’s the weekend and the hotel's Savoy Restaurant doesn’t close until 11:00. it’s the usual Radisson breakfast which is definitely amongst the best in the mass-hotel industry, we’re never disappointed.
This is our third time in Bratislava so we’re thinking we should venture further afield, and we aim for Trnava which, in the C13 was one of the largest towns in central Europe. Ignoring the soviet-era concrete city built around it, the fully-walled town is a wonderful rabbit-warren of old cobbled streets, with many churches and ancient buildings, the beautiful university is simply charming, despite the drizzle in the air. We wander round for a few hours, disappointed that every single church was locked, as is the norm these days, but still enjoy the atmosphere.
Our return drive, 63km, seems to take less time and we’re soon back in Bratislava. Weather permitting we planned to walk to Devín Castle, just 8km up the Danube, but the drizzle is continuing so we drive there instead. Parking in the elegant village of Devín we wander up to the ruined castle, which has an amazing vantage point on a right-angle bend in the Danube where the lesser Morava River joins it.
We return to our hotel and park up, just in time for tea in the bar, the signature Carlton Cake is just perfect, no-doubt owing a lot to the influence of nearby Vienna! Soon it’s time to prepare and dress for dinner, and of course manage a quick Chardonnay in the bar before we head out.
Having done the homework several years ago, when we were first here and it was my birthday, we already know the best restaurant in town. So we head uphill, through the old town, past the castle, uphill through the university area, and uphill towards the leafy suburbs where the embassy are to be found, and nestled in this area is The Albrecht Hotel and Restaurant.
Review of Albrecht Restaurant Bratislava
Situated high on the hill above the castle and overlooking the town of Bratislava the view back downtown is spectacular at night, and probably pretty good during the day too.
The bar is an interesting mix of wood, concrete and exposed air ducts, but the hundreds of bottles of wine at either end calm the senses and ensure ones aperitif is enjoyed to the full. The restaurant itself, just on the other side of the bar is softer, having traded the concrete for glass and metal.
Last time we just had a traditional three course, and it was undoubtedly excellent, but as is the vogue these days, it often pays to enjoy the finest choices chef can offer, carefully combined into the tasting menu, especially if one is not a regular visitor.
At first we were a little nonplussed with the level, or lack thereof, of service and professionalism, but we are high in expectation, and other folks might not have even noticed the rough handling of our arrival - the missing greeting, not being given the chance to sit in the bar for a drink, no coaster when it did arrive - but we’re soon over that and enjoy a crisp glass of champagne before being taken to our table.
Even then we had to ask for the tasting menu as it wasn’t offered, one of the benefits of doing one’s homework is knowing the answer to a question already. We also opted for the paired wines, and first enjoy chef’s surprise, a lovely potato velouté.
Carabineros prawns are widely recognised as being the best available in the world, (we call them Cardinal and the French Imperial) and these, marinated and served with saffron aioli and lime crème fraîche, are just divine, the paired prosecco delivers just the right amount of sweetness to counteract the citrus.
Next up is quail, served pink with foie gras sauce and poached egg, simply a fabulous taste. We then have lobster bisque which is certainly one of the finest we’ve ever tasted, despite having the privilege of sampling this dish in many fine establishments the world over.
A lime sorbet settled our palates before we move on.
Wondering if things could get any better, the sea bass, baked in nori-rolled cylinders was just incredible, and the brown butter and oyster sauce accompanying it was extraordinary.
Sometimes the main course is a let-down in tasting menus, after having had several exceptional courses already, but tonight the dove breast was also wonderful. Beautifully pink, it’s taste and texture perhaps a hint less strong than pigeon. We came across our next minor disappointment, as neither of us is keen on polenta, but that didn't distract from the beautiful taste of the dove breast, it's heart and excellent juniper demi-glaze.
Finishing off with green tea cream, the excellently presented dessert was a fitting finish to a wonderful dinner. We did wonder whether the blush Tokaj was perfectly suited to the dish, but either way it was a minor consideration.
Our second visit cemented our previous opinion that this is a stunning restaurant worthy of inclusion on the world’s culinary stage.
Day 3 - 17/03/19
We wake up to a foggy morning, and 5 degrees! Not at all what we expected or planned for, but by the time we’ve consumed our body-weight at breakfast, the sun is out and the day much more promising.
Our first stop is the town just a mile or two from yesterday’s castle - as the crow flies (actually they seem to favour jackdaws here, they are everywhere) at least, In fact it's on the other side of the Danube and there’s no way across upstream of Bratislava, so we immediately cross over and then head parallel to yesterday afternoon on the other side of the river, soon crossing from Slovakia into Austria. There’s no border as such on this country road, the only reason we know is because the car's sat-nav suddenly announces the speed restrictions (which are slightly different) for Austria!
Our first destination is a little village or town called Hainburg and we wander along the river, marvelling at the vast flood defences erected for several miles where the town is very close to the river. The river is flowing rapidly and we see many tree-trunks and other flotsam barreling past us as we watch.
After a pleasant wander we return via the town square, try the church door but it’s locked already and service isn’t long finished - they just don’t want visitors these days. Then we’re off to our next destination, the Lake Neusiedl which at 122 sq miles is a good 20 times bigger than Windermere and 5 times bigger than Loch Ness, so pretty hefty, and it crosses the border between Austria and Hungary. We’re aiming for the town of Rust, which has a little marina and holiday home area right on the lake, it’s extremely pretty and no doubt in season, impossibly busy, but today we’re able to park up and have a wander without much fuss.
After our two little excursions its’s time to return to Vienna, just an hours drive away and we’re soon battling the Capital’s manic traffic to find a place to park, happily we manage quite well and park mid-way between the centre and the Prater Park where the iconic Riesenrad Giant Wheel is situated. Built in 1897 to celebrate the golden jubilee of Franz Josef I, it was never expected to last but the state couldn’t afford to demolish it, so its still here, fortunately! It has been on my list since the Third Man and more recently the Living Daylights, so on our third visit to Vienna we finally manage it.
Heading back into town we do lots of tourist things, walking through Stadtplatz to see the golden Strauss statue and then on to the Opera House and more tourist areas. After we’ve done a good circuit we head back to the Opera House area and descend on Cafe Mozart at the corner of the Sacher Hotel, famous for its wonderful cake. Today we’re in search of Wienerschnitzel, the wonderful veal steak hammered flat and quickly-fried in breadcrumbs - just wonderful, especially with a merlot from the region of Lake Neusiedl - Burgenland.
A nice two mile wander back through the crazy sights and sounds of tourists enjoying the balmy weather, still 20 degrees, until we get the car and return to the airport.
Sadly Sleazyjet disappoint us with the news of a two and a half hour delay, so we’re hanging around waiting at the gate now. The positive is I’ve completed all my photos and blog in record time, the negative is that we’re not likely to get home much before 04:00 now, and we have to be up early on Monday for a full day! Having fun is never easy!!
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