3700 years ago, Strongyle was a perfectly formed round island, volcanic shaped like Fuji or Killimanjaro. Merchants lived on the islands and traded in the Cyclades area and beyond. Presumably they noticed the smoke emanating from their island, so they packed up their lives and left. That’s all we know from archaeologists digging in the area.
The volcano erupted with such force it literally blew its side off, and the sea rushed into the centre. The ensuing tsunami, with 30m waves, was felt as far as Mykonos, where it wiped out vast populations. We’ll never know if those inhabitants who departed made it, but in all likelihood they didn’t.
The resulting caldera is the largest in the world, some 86km2 in area. The island has a different name these days, it is Santorini. Potentially one of the most beautiful islands in Greece or anywhere for that matter. Unfortunately, just like Venice, it’s suffering from tourist affluenza, and this makes it just a little bit trying!
However, we started like there was no one else. We’d decided on a trip to the volcanic island of “New Island” which is the one nearest the port. It’s just us and a delightful Brazilian family on this trip, it was amusing to discover we had an entire pirate ship to ourselves, much to the delight of the two smallish boys we were with.
The island was only born in 1570 so is exceedingly young by any standards. Even more amazing is that as recently as 1950 it erupted creating the shape it is today. Even now it’s alive and breathing, we saw the billowing steam emanating from its sulphur pits. After a relatively short climb we’re at the first crater where all the action was centred in 1950, but we move on to other craters, until finally we’re at the summit, overlooking the entire caldera back to Santorini and out to the other islands forming the original Strongyle.
After we’ve walked comprehensively around the volcano we return to Pirate Command and head around the island to the next one, “old island” which has not erupted for almost two millennia, since 46 AD to be precise. There is, however, a sulphur pool, spanning a bridge between island and bay, into which we were able to swim. So our ship parks in the bay, and we dived off into the sea and swam towards the island into the increasingly hot, and smelly, water of the pool. Sadly another yatch had arrived by then and it was a battle between “the French” and me to get in first - I won this one! The Brazilians were equally forthright, the boys having a wonderful time!
We all swam back to the pirate ship and sadly returned to the Port of Thira, the capital of Santorini. We briefly visited the Seabourn station to dump our towels and pick up extra mineral water, then headed for the infamous steps up to to Thira which is 600 steps. Three choices of route are available, a cable car, foot power, or donkey power. The latter has always seemed cruel to us, these tiny animals did not look equipped for the task, but this time we don’t think they are so small - have they started to use a heftier breed to cope with the heftier clientele?
Once at the top, the town of Thira is overrun with tourists, it’s most people’s absolute nightmare, so we rapidly head away from the maddening crowd and go South. We’re aiming for the only walkable attraction, a traditional village about four miles away. Most noticeable is the incessant caravan of quad bikes, typically hired by hapless young couples staying on the island - there are thousands of them, mostly driven badly, so we ensure we give them a wide berth wherever possible.
The traditional village is very beautiful and quite a peaceful oasis which we enjoy before heading back to the capital, and the steps down to the port. It’s just 10.75 miles plus whatever we did on the volcano, which I wasn’t monitoring.
Back onbsord we’re still faffing with the future cruise consultant, so time is devoted that that, and soon after we’re in the pool listening to a classical concert - yes you got that right, we’re two yards from the stage, in the pool, drinking champagne, whilst the ship’s company are delivering a delightful operatic and stage-musical programme. Only on Seaborn, I suspect!
We hastily shower and dress for dinner, accepting second best servers because our favourite Danjel is deployed elsewhere yet again. The menu is exceptional and we enjoy duck’s breast and lobster & artichoke, corn chowder and sweetbreads (over cooked, which was a disappointment) and stuffed quail. Puddings failed to get photographed but we were very happy with chocolate cheese cake and poached pears (not as good as mine!)
It was the mad pianist again tonight, but he was once again exceptional, an excellent entertainer.
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