Day 1

Even though the time boundaries are blurred by clock-changing travel, OJ is the usual start to the morning, in the Etihad lounge at Abu Dhabi. It's a huge affair, although we've been a few times it's always a surprise just how many people must travel through this airport, rather like in Dubai, the Emirates hub which is mind-numbingly sized. Then a quick stroll to the gate, which turns out to be just yards away, literally under the lounge, and the seemingly obligatory 15 minute bus-ride back to the far reaches of the airport, past huge areas of construction. As we pass by one plane we see a Bugatti Veyron being loaded into a hold, but couldn't get the camera out in time. 

Although it's a similar model plane as the previous journey, it's configured differently and has a first class section complete with mini suites, very smart - I don't know how these cost, but given the floor space consumed it's probably twice the price of business. The stewardess gave me a tour, I loved all the technology and toys! I also notice they get better champagne than us! The centre section seems to have twin suites ideal for the young German couple who are the only occupants. Once again we have a prayer first and despite a long delay caused by a paperwork malfunction we're assured we will arrive on time. Nothing like the delay we once had when the king (of UAE) turned up unannounced wanting a lift - like that captain said, you don't argue with your boss!

On landing we are hit by the heatwave beating up from the tarmac. Male airport is tiny and as we're parked nose to the arrivals door, it's literally 20 feet across the apron back to the terminal building - still in British Mode we're not dressed for this yet. For once, the immigration lines are not horrendous and it takes 2 minutes to be processed and delightfully our bags are the first off the conveyor belt. So far we've walked about 100 steps, this airport is wonderfully small!

We follow the usual short route out to the sixty plus little desks, maybe one for each agent or hotel/island/chain and a representative walks us in the direction of 'Meeru Mail' the boat that will take us to Meeru. It's an hour's ride at 20 knots to Meeru, yes we could fly but it's probably not far enough to bother, and the time wasted going through the airport 'machine' yet again would easily take longer! The geography is not too challenging, Male the capital is the most Southern island in Male Atoll and our island is half-way up the atoll, so compared to many other people we're not travelling too far. However there is a fleet of water-planes that whisk people all over the country - air-crew in bare feet take some getting used to, but this is a different country!

Finally, we arrive at the all-too familiar Meeru jetty and head off to reception to check into our island home for two weeks. Check-in is painless, they have most of our details from previous visits, so all we do is sign the form, and pick out our bags. The staff wanted to drive us to the room in a golf cart but of course we said no thanks we will walk, so we head off over to the other side of the island towards our boardwalk. This time our room is the penultimate one on the boardwalk so it take a good few minutes to get there. 

We quickly change into shorts and then head off for a circuit before the light disappears. Meeru is almost tear-drop shaped, excepting a bulge at the bottom left, so we tend to think in clock terms - our boardwalk is at 3 o'clock, the jetty is at 9 o'clock where reception, one restaurant, two bars and the dive centre can be found. So we head off clockwise, it's great to be walking on white sand again, even though the dead coral gets washed up and can be quite sharp!

As it's gone cloudy there's no danger of a sunset so we walk on past our usual place for sundowners (11 o'clock) and complete the clock face but then stop at the conveniently sited bar right at the start of our boardwalk. The poor bartender struggled to open the bottle but eventually we were enjoying our first Chardonnay! Being Muslim the staff are not natural drinkers, they don't necessarily get it, and even after eight years working here our otherwise lovely bartender fails to display the panache we would normally hope to see. He's very chatty and eager to keep the wine flowing, with only three pairs of customers, service is impeccable.  

A quick shower and we head back for dinner. This island is not a culinary experience, dear reader. Unlike our usual holidays we're not going to be waxing lyrically every night about the latest, greatest foodie extravagance! The two main restaurants are both buffet-style and have duplicated menus, which you attend is purely geographical, the other two are specialist and extra charge, you'll hear a bit about these in time. 

Tonight we're pleasantly surprised how quiet is, and then again when later in the meal they pull the lid off their tandoori oven to offer freshly baked naan and skewered lamb - but we had to convince them it was good to serve it rare, not that it was really, but I suspect 'over-done' is the local preference.